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Silhouettes pass and cross paths at the Jussieu campus built in the early 1960s. They draw close to one another, pause, and follow each other in the lines they take and trails they leave, experimenting with new ways of coming together. In this free-flowing movement of bodies, contrasts, characters, differences, genders and ages, LEMAIRE has created a singular presence.
The ample, almost oversize volumes lend movement to garments tightened by ties, loosened by a long collar opening, or pulled taut by a string of off-center buttons. The wardrobe shifts between forms and functions: a uniform is rematched with a different shade, pajamas turn into a suit, a double-breasted jacket a cardigan, a cardigan coat, a sleeveless downjacket an overcoat, a knit into fur, shoes into slippers. The collection is more relaxed – somewhere between restraint and letting loose, structured and deconstructed. New folk syntheses and crossing between East and West emergein a foulard tied around the neck, a quilted collar placed on a jacket, a frill opening the bottom of a dress. Eminently urban silhouettes – large collars, blouses, pockets and bags – appear poised for departure on a citybound journey through time. LEMAIRE has continued its collaboration with Noviadi Angkasapura, an Indonesian artist known for his hybrid, epic drawings, whose spiritual messages feature on silk garments.